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SPICES, DISPELLING THE MYTH


by Charles Barnes

If you ask the average person what they think food from the Middle Ages and Renaissance tasted like, the common response would be that it was over-spiced and not very palatable, much less edible. This fallacy has long been one of the greatest obstacles facing the historical re-creational cook in their attempts to encourage people to try dishes from days gone by. The fact is, for mankind as a whole, taste buds have not changed much in the last two or three thousand years.

So let us begin by dispelling the fallacy of inedible medieval food. First and foremost, food was not often truly over-spiced. For the most part, cooks could not afford to have a heavy hand with spices. They themselves, or their helpers, grew a wide variety of the spices used. There was always a limited supply due to garden size and the need to make the reserve last throughout the year. If imported spices were used it was done sparingly due to the exorbitant cost.

Second myth -- spices were not used to hide the taste of rancid meat. Then, as today, if a person ate bad meat they would get sick and possibly die. Let's face it: if someone were to feed you food that made you ill and nearly killed you, what would you do to that cook? He would not have a very long career! Our taste buds have not changed that much!

Now, speaking for the head cook of a keep, castle or manor: they were cooking for the tastes of their liege lord, not for themselves. If their lord preferred this dish sweeter, or that dish more sour, and that one saltier than the cook himself liked it, then how do you suppose it was cooked? You got it! It was done as their master liked. After all, who gave them a roof over their head and clothes on their back?

Most exotic spices were imported from China, Java and India via the Middle East to Venice. Aside from the distinct flavor that some imported spices would impart to the food there was another reason for their use. Cooks used these expensive and extravagant spices to impress guests. By having such exotic spices used at feasts and tables laid for guests, the master would be seen as a very worldly and knowledgeable man (as well as rich), having had these spices brought in from distant lands. A few of the more exotic spices used during the Middle Ages, yet little used today, were Saffron, Grains of Paradise,Cubebs and Galingale.

Delicately flavored saffron would be the spice most familiar to modern palates, as well as most often used in ancient times. The red-orange stigma of the Saffron Crocus (Crocus Sativus) is the part used. 150,000 flowers are required to produce a single kilogram during the two-week harvest season. Eastern in origin, saffron was introduced to Spain and Italy in the 8th century and later to southern France and England. Still considered a very sophisticated spice (and the most expensive in the world), saffron adds a soft harvest-gold hue to food and a subtle flavor that must be tasted to be understood. It was, and is also, still used as a fabric dye. In ancient times, saffron-yellow was second only to royal purple as the color most favored by nobility.

Grains of paradise (Amomum Melegueta) were used in the Mediterranean areas since the early 1200's. Resembling miniature peppercorns, this spice has a flavorful bite and was often used as a substitute for black pepper. Imported originally from both West Africa and Guinea to Europe, grains of paradise were used in everything from beer and ale to cooked meats.

Another pepper-like spice is the dried berry known as a cubeb (Piper Cubeba). A native of Java, this little-known spice is seldom used today in European cookery, but still has a place in Asian and Middle Eastern dishes.

Hailing from central Europe and once known as "sweet cyperus", galingale (Cyperus Longus) is a rhizome like ginger, which it strongly resembles (though more aromatic and peppery). Often used as a substitute for the same, galingale was a favorite for brewers, as well as for cooks, and had several medicinal uses as well.

As is evident, the popularity of both imported and native spices used during the Middle Ages stems from their ability to improve the flavor of the food we eat. So the old saying goes, "The more things change, the more they stay the same."

Feeling extravagant and medievil tonight? Give this recipe a try.

VELE
Take Vele, an Make it clene, an hakke it to gobettys, an seethe it ; an take fat brothe, an temper vp thine Almaundys that thou hast y-grounde, an lye it with Flowre of Rys, and do ther-to gode Powder of Gyngere, & Galyngale, Canel, Mace, Quybybis, and Oynonys y-mynsyd, & Roysonys of coraunce, & coloure yt wyth Safroun, and put ther-to thin Vele, & serue forth.

Need a little help with the translation?

VEAL IN STEW
Take Veal and clean it well and chop it into cubes then brown them in a skillet. Take a fat broth and thicken it with ground almonds and rice flower. Add to it ground ginger, ground galingale, cinnamon, mace, cubebs and minced onions and Currants. Add Saffron to color. Add back the veal, simmer till the veal is tender and serve.

Recipe from: A Fifteenth Century Cookery Boke. Compiled by John Anderson

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