If you missed part one and two of this how-to series you may want to read Part 1: Creating Faux Stone Walls and Part 2: Creating A Faux Medieval Door.

We've painted the problem hollow-core door to resemble a wooden slab castle door, and our tapestry looks lovely against our faux stone walls. Our last project is to tackle the area above an open entry into another room. We could continue the stone pattern, but it would look unwieldy and incomplete. So we've decided to mimic a castle entry, and paint a keystone design around the opening on our wall. This will finish the area and make the entry look sturdy, while showcasing the items we've chosen to display on the entry wall.

MATERIALS

• Acrylic latex paint in shades of brown and gray - use the same leftover paint you used for the faux stone wall.
• Paintbrushes - a 1" or 2" brush, and a small artist's brush for touch-ups
• Pencil
• Ruler or tape measure
• Straightedge (this could be your ruler)
• Small sponge
• Low tack masking or painter's tape

PREPARATION

As in our other projects, preparation is minimal. Clear the trim and wall of any dust or debris. Small blemishes in the wall do not have to be repaired - it simply adds character to the finished product. We used the same leftover paint from our wall project to ensure continuity.

Tape off any areas you want to keep clear of drips or smudges, and cover the floor with a drop cloth. Run a row of tape along the ceiling where it joins the wall. Use caution when working with paints - if your skin is sensitive, wear rubber gloves. Consider wearing safety glasses when working on any project.

MARKING STONE PLACEMENT

Determine the size of the keystones - keep stones at a larger proportion than regular bricks, but not as large as the stones painted on the wall. The center stone at the top of the opening will be the tallest, so begin there.

Measure to the center of the opening, and mark with a pencil. Then measure half of your stone's determined width on each side. Determine the maximum height for the stone, measure from each end and mark. We used a height of 10" for our center stone.

Using the center stone as your guide, measure individual stones to each side, making them various heights and widths.

MORTAR LINES

Following the vertical and horizontal lines of your pencilled-in stones, apply paint between the sides of the stones. Make mortar just over 1/4 inch wide. Use a color that is a shade lighter than the mortar color for the rest of the wall. You do not have to be exact. Remember that the stones reflect a medieval method of stonecutting and will be irregular. Allow your mortar lines to dry completely before proceeding.

After the paint is completely dry, apply low-tack masking or painter's tape over the lines. We tore tape to an approximate measurement of 1/4 inch, creating a ragged edge. Press tape firmly along the edges, so paint will not bleed under.

FILLING IN THE STONES

Apply various shades of light brown and gray, pouncing the colors on with a paintbrush and following an angled pattern to mimic the color striations of rock. We used the lighter shades of paint that we had used on the wall area, visually bringing the keystones forward from the rest of the stones.

Vary the angles from one stone to another, as if each stone was cut separately. While paint is still wet, soften the layers of color by dabbing the edges with the end of the brush. Use a small brush for any tight areas. Remove tape from mortar. Let dry.

Step away from your project to view your work from time to time. This will help you with the shading and determine where you want your light source is coming from.

SHADING THE STONES

• The next step is to make your keystones look as if they protrude further than the other stones in the wall. If they truly did stick out, they would have a shadow on the side opposite the point of light. Determine where your light source is, and make a note where a shadow would fall from the keystones.

• You may want to lighten up your mortar now. If it's dark your stones will not protrude. Remember objects that are closer are lighter.

• Add a little white to the base colors used in your stonework. Lightly stipple with either a sponge, toothbrush or paintbrush; highlight where the light hits the stone. This will give a more three dimensional look.

• Using a small moistened sponge, dab a small amount of a darker shade of gray along the outside edges of the keystones. Pounce lightly, blending to create an illusion of a shadow breaking against rough stones. Drag a dry brush or sponge away from the stones to difuse the edges of the shadow.

Now your wall is finished, giving a one-of-a-kind backdrop to set off your period items. The rough texture of tapestry, the hand-rubbed look of pewter will have a flair of authenticity when they are displayed on your own personal castle walls. Share your passion for the past with your houseguests - try this look in a guest bath or bedroom, and wait for the cheers from your subjects!

Before

After

Photos by: Cynthea Cameron

About Author

Rosemarie Colombraro will be tackling more painting projects in the next issue of Renaissance.com. She invites your comments at Birdinwhite@aol.com